After having adjusted to the culture shock of Kathmandu in Nepal, the old city of Varanasi was on another level entirely. Complete sensory overload, with the activity and sheer number of people on the streets. Having a guide to show us through the city to the river was a welcome blessing. Here, the nightly fire puja, a ceremonial dedication to the River Ganges, Sun, Lord Shiva, Fire and the whole universe, was being performed by the local young brahmin preists. Lots of incense smoke, loud clanging bells and chanting all add to the tone of an enchanting, time honoured tradition.