High in the mountains between Tehran and the Caspian Sea my friend of five minutes aquaintance, who I call Haji Baba, is the proprietor of the Well Come Restaurant. A dlightful old fellow with whom I exchanged pleasantries with my few words of Farsi and his bit of English. We just stopped for a wee and a cup of chi (tea) in that order, which was very welcome, you may be sure.  I am not completely sure where we were and therefore the position I've marked on the map may very well be miles out. The time was November 2008 and it was just beginning to snow (infact returning a day later the snow was deep but the road kept open by snow plows). Having passed through the thirteen tunnels on this road from Tehran north, we reached what must have been almost the highest point, and Haji's Restaurant.